In 2005 Colore was made from the three best barrels in the cellar, consisting of one each Sangiovese, Colorino and Canaiolo. Yields were a miniscule 12 hectoliters per hectare. The wine possesses perfumed aromatics that meld into a seamless palate of perfumed dark red cherries, minerals and sweet toasted oak, with a darker flavor profile than the Testamatta. This medium-bodied red offers superb poise and balance, with a long, inviting finish. It too needs bottle age to reach its fullest potential. For readers looking at the $800 price tag, that is not a typo. It does represent a completely preposterous, egregious and delusional (you get the idea) approach to pricing, especially considering that Graetz, despite his unquestioned talent, has less than a decade of history under his belt. Colore is a beautiful wine, but its intrinsic value is perhaps in the neighborhood of $80 or so. The rest of the price is simply a play on the wine's scarcity (900 bottles produced) rather than a reflection of what is truly in the bottle. I can think of an infinite number of smarter and ultimately more rewarding ways to spend $800 dollars on wine, and my guess is Wine Advocate readers can too. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Bibi Graetz's wines always make me smile because they have an almost child-like joy about them. Various American importers, including: Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae, CA; tel. (415) 927 9463, Siema Wines LLC, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-1200, MS Walker, Sommerville, MA; tel. (617) 776 6700

The mixed summer was followed by a warm September, and Graetz wisely harvested quickly before the heavy autumnal rains. The nose is leafy and brambly, and shows some maturity. Supple and sleek, it's drinking well and may be at its peak. The tannins are light and there is no excessive extraction. Moderate acidity gives a modest finish.

Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. Difficult vintage with a cold winter, rainy spring, hot and dry early summer before rain in August. Then came 3 weeks of rain in late September. Graetz harvested early, just before the rains came. First tests of ambient yeasts for Colore. Meaty notes to the fore. On the nose, violet and tobacco leaf. Powerful and concentrated but not as harmonious as other vintages. Tannins rather drying on the finish. (AH)