With fruit from 60-year-old vines, the 2011 Colore is a precious blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino in equal parts. This is a highly singular wine made in very reduced quantities (only 2,000 bottles were produced). This mid weight expression shows a dark garnet color and moderate luminosity. That muted color is recognized across the very artisanal wines made by Bibi Graetz. The quality of fruit is bitter and raw and there is some sourness on the close. Having said that, enthusiasts will appreciate these one-off wines, especially with regards to how they relate to the strong personalities that create them. Lingering ash, smoke and dark licorice add subtle elegance on the finish. The only point of contention is the price tag.

One-third each Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino. After a warm spring and early budburst, June and July were cooler than normal. Then it turned very hot with scorching temperatures in August leading to dehydration and sunburn. For the first time, Graetz did not trim the vines. Cool nights in the Autumn helped preserve aromatics. Raisined notes much more evident on the nose. Soft, enveloping fruit on the palate, which is voluptuous and weighty but makes 2011 Colore a little hefty compared with the preceding vintages. Still a fine wine but less smooth and not as harmonious. (AH)