The 2021 Testamatta is Sangiovese sourced from various hilltop vineyards spanning different cool microclimates. The ideal is to underline the transparency and fragility of the variety. Fruit from the Olmo Vineyard plays a big role and “gives a strong imprint to this wine,” Bibi says. Testamatta offers fresh aromas of violet, rose, forest green and candied orange peel. Bibi says 2021 was generally warmer than 2020, but all three vintages—2020, 2021 and 2022—are considered hot. He is upbeat regarding 2023 thanks to all the rain. Testamatta shows an earthy note that gives this wine (with 120,000 bottles made) a slightly more accessible personality. The tannins are lightly managed and the oak framing is down to an elegant minimum. Bibi buys 1% new oak each year, and his oldest barrels date back to 2003. He does not pull leaves, and he employs methods that do not concentrate his fruit so he can safeguard the typicity of Sangiovese. Winemaking is as natural as possible. The beautiful results are classic and bright. He strives to keep alcohol contents below 13%.

100% Sangiovese made from young vines from several vineyards between Florence and Siena. Fermented and aged in stainless steel for six months. Lustrous and just mid ruby. A restrained red-fruit nose with exotic spice hints and a suggestion of soy. Very fine, still very closed and really fresh. Rather firm tannins that are a tiny bit bitter at the moment but they will evolve, no doubt, with further ageing. Cranberry on the finish and very elegant, if tannic right now. Cool-climate character. (WS)