1995 was the first vintage where Angelo Gaja had total control over the viticulture and vinification of these Brunello di Montalcinos. This wine is spectacular, and among the finest I tasted from this vintage. The 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille is a beast! A closed, dense, tannic behemoth, it possesses huge body, exceptional concentration and power, and remarkable levels of black cherry liqueur infused with smoke, dried herbs, cedar, and licorice. The opaque garnet color is not indicative of a wine this closed and backward. Give it 5-6 years of cellaring and drink it over the next 25-30 years. This is an exceptionally impressive Brunello from Angelo Gaja. Importer: Dominic Nocerino, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907

Deeper and more saturated in color. Very warm, sweet aromas of plum and chocolate, along with a light oakiness that does not disturb. Fuller, denser and more solid than the regular Brunello bottling, but also more focused; spicy and quite fresh. Finishes with velvety, polished tannins and very good texture.

Fullish black-ruby color. More evident oak vanilla aromas, along with profound marron and black plum scents and a hint of roast coffee. Full body (33 grams per liter extract). Fruit flavors are richer and even fresh than those of the above, and the tannins are also denser. Less forward and less velvety now, but so powerful and deep that the wine potential is obvious. A wine of great power, concentration and focus. Should reward a decade or more of aging. ***+