The 2019 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco (a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese) is a real beauty and shows very nicely today based on advancing vine age alone. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah vines show great results after seven years, whereas Merlot and Sangiovese vines need a few more years before they start to show that extra degree of complexity, the winemaking team tells me. This is a complete and beautifully balanced wine that shows soft extraction and especially sweet tannins. It fermented in truncated conical oak vats and finished in barrique for 18 months. 60,000 bottles were produced.

Lustrous mid ruby. Great depth but still a little closed, with distinct spicy notes and a hint of bell pepper. Perfumed fruit emerges with aeration. Supple and succulent and with gorgeous, polished, finely ground tannins. Not yet ready but hard to resist right now. (WS)

65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Sangiovese. Ageing: 18 months in barriques. Very glowing ruby. Lots of work on the tannins here. A very glamorous wine. Definitely no country bumpkin! Quite a bit of alcohol in evidence but it’s pure pleasure engineering. (JR)