This is a new project (and a second, independent brand) headed by the Mazzei family of Castello di Fonterutoli. The Caggio 2015 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus strives for Sangiovese purity and a sense of place. It achieves both, thanks to careful work in identifying a cool growing site for the Tuscan variety and a classic or traditional approach to winemaking with carefully managed maceration and aging in oak tonneaux. The results are soulful and profound with wild blueberry or raspberry, forest floor, blue flower and clove-flavored orange peel. The tannins are supple and smooth, yet there is enough structure and linearity to carry the wine forward in time. This was a warm and sunny vintage, and I can't imagine a better growing season from which to create an inaugural wine such as this. Ipsus is a new addition to a very limited group of vinous icons from Tuscany.

First vintage. ‘Relatively simple’, according to Giovanni Mazzei, but the price isn’t! Their deliberate positioning. The Mazzeis say Ipsus might be the most expensive Chianti Classico but suggest some Castello di Ama wines may be even more so. 2,400 bottles in this first year. Launched in February 2020 – just before lockdown. Aged 24 months in new tonneaux and 8 months in concrete. TA 6 g/l, pH 3.39. Transparent ruby. Not that much nose. Some burnished bonfire notes. Certainly lively and fresh. Stony finish. Long. Delicate. Appetising. (JR)