The Caggio 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus is a lovely expression of Sangiovese. The wine captures the slightly wild and untamed side of the grape that is so compelling, but it also focuses on elegance and nuance. On first nose, the bouquet reveals plenty of forest berry and wild cherry, but as you come back to the glass for a second and third try, you might notice more determined notes of crushed stone and granite. The wine is lean and streamlined with pretty floral embellishments over a long and silky finish. More than anything, Ipsus captures the purity and honesty of Sangiovese over a delicately polished and lean mouthfeel.

‘Great vintage with lovely September and diurnal variation.’ Aged 24 months in tonneaux (70% new) and 15-hl barrel and 5 months in concrete, then 24 months in bottle before release. TA 6.2 g/l, pH 3.32. Lots more on the nose than the 2015, with real, intense Sangiovese character. Strong bonfire aroma, with a sweet, flattering, spicy palate. Then dry, intense essence of tanginess on the finish. Super-elegant and neat with nicely managed tannins. Firmer than the 2018 and 2019. (JR)