The estate's 2004 Cepparello was made from miniscule yields of just 600 grams per plant and is even better than the 2003. It exhibits a livelier color, fresher aromatics and a nuanced personality, all the products of a more balanced growing season. You would hardly know this 100% Sangiovese was aged exclusively in new oak. It boasts layers of vibrant fruit intermingled with subtle mineral and licorice notes, showing outstanding length on the palate and fine, noble tannins. A wine of extraordinary elegance, it has been stunning on the two occasions I have tasted it so far. That said, readers who want to experience this wine's full array of tertiary notes will have to give this wine time to mature in the bottle. It is highly recommended.

The 2004 Cepparello has fleshed out beautifully since I last tasted it. Dark raspberries, flowers, licorice and spices blossom from the glass as the wine opens up over time. When it was young the 2004 was a much more linear wine, but since then it has put on a lot of weight. Today, the 2004 comes across as a modern day 1982 because of its balance of aromatics, fruit and structure. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034.

A gorgeous nose of raspberry, wild strawberry, mulberry and a touch of damson – what you might call a “dreamy” bouquet. The palate has a soft entry, ravishing and lush texture with smooth red cherries and strawberries, lace-like tannins with an elegant, almost understated finish that gains weight with time in glass. Lovely. Sophisticated and charming. Drink now-2016. Tasted September 2008.