The 2021 Cepparello is a reticent, tightly wound wine, despite its mid-weight structure. Today, the 2021 comes across as quite nervy and lean, even for young Cepparello. It will be interesting to see if this comes together with a bit more time in bottle. I very much like the energy here, but the 2021 is decidedly austere.

One of Tuscany's flagship wines, the Isole e Olena 2021 Cepparello immediately delivers ripe fruit flavors that are firm, even crunchy, and that bodes well for the future evolution of this classic vintage. The wine is packed with tart fruit flavors followed by balanced acidity. Compared to past vintages that are more extracted and dense, this edition is delightfully bright and transparent. I appreciation the age-worthy direction Cepparello is taking.

Cepparello 2021 is Paolo De Marchi's swansong vintage – and he's gone out on a high. Vibrant and vertical, tangy and bright, it introduces a complexity of fresh, sour and dried cherries with some peppery spice. This more poised, fresh and balanced direction is becoming a signature of the region's best wines and – just as in the years after he took over from his father's winery in 1976 – Paolo has demonstrated that he is still in the vanguard.