The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia is another huge wine from Lisini. It doesn't have the textural depth or roundness of the Riserva in 2006, instead it shows greater aromatic complexity and nuance. Sweet hints of tobacco, wild herbs, crushed flowers and cedar are layered into the powerful, linear finish. Here, too, readers will need to be patient. The Ugolaia spent four full years in cask.

Good full red. Extremely backward but vibrant nose hints at raspberry, bitter cherry, mace and dried flowers. Gripping, sharply delineated and wonderfully light on its feet, with bitter cherry, dried flowers and spices dominating the palate. Offers outstanding focus through the very long, rising, classy finish, which stimulates the palate with a note of blood orange. A beauty, and a great expression of sangiovese from a top site, but not for drinking anytime soon.