Lisini’s single-vineyard selection is its usual exotic self in 2017. It opens with a heady mix of incense, juniper, pressed lilac and lavender. There's also that polished wood nuance which I associate with the wine finishing in chestnut cask for six months. Even more dense than the estate’s annata Brunello, the hearty palate presents flavours of myrtle and currants offset by an appetising inner saline core. This boasts gusto and chew, and those sizeable tannins demand another year in the bottle but are admirably lush. Definitely one of the vintage’s successes.

Dried roses and cherries are lifted by hints of cinnamon and clove as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia grumbles up from the glass. This is nearly velvety in feel, with a dense wave of tart wild berries complicated by hints of sour citrus and balsamic spice. Plum and licorice nuances linger on, as the 2017 finishes structured, yet not severely so, leaving hints of mocha and red currants. The Ugolaia is another example of the success that Lisini had in this difficult vintage. That said, it will require a number of years to come fully into focus.

From a hot and very dry vintage, the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia reveals a dark garnet color with extra concentration and textural richness. The bouquet is redolent of dark fruit, baked plum and toasted spice. Ugolaia is layered and rich, but despite the vintage intensity, the mouthfeel is medium in length and the wine finishes with bright freshness. Some 8,000 bottles were made.

Lustrous, deep ruby with orange tinges. Minerally and brooding on the nose and still quite closed. Lots of suave yet tangy fruit. A little bit massive right now but hugely promising and with firm but super-refined tannins. Long, layered and sappy finish. Stunning, but not ready by far. (WS)