La Magia's 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Ciliegio is made with certified-organic fruit and is named after the cherry ("ciliegio" in Italian) trees that line the perimeter of this growing site. It must be the power of suggestion, but I taste many cherry-related aromas here, from baked cherry confit to toasted cherrywood. Those oaky tones are a little too monotone in my opinion. With time, they become increasingly savory and spicy with cinnamon and clove. The wine definitely underlines the flavor abundance of the vintage, and it ends with dry, slightly bitter tannins. Fresh acidity kicks in at the end.

Lustrous mid ruby. Brisk, almost piercing cherry nose with the merest hint of cumin. The supple, round fruit on the palate is a real contrast to the nose. Plenty of depth and succulent acidity all tied-in by powdery tannins. Great aromatic length and with a medium- rather than full-bodied weight on the palate. (WS)