The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is one of the richest and most powerful wines of the vintage. Super-ripe blackberries, blueberries, mocha, new leather and sweet spices flow from this textured, opulent Brunello. The muscular fruit powers through to the finish, accompanied all the way by firm tannins from the oak. The sheer concentration and depth of fruit are remarkable, but ultimately this comes across as a heavy, labored Brunello with limited finesse. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 256-2700

What a nose of tangerines, dark fruits, spices and cigar box. Full bodied, with incredible concentration and power. It goes on for minutes. Mind blowing. Meat, dark chocolate, dried fruits, mushrooms. Turns to aniseed and black licorice. It is a wine with soul. How can Sangiovese be better? Better in 2014.

Impenetrable dark ruby with bright, small orange rim. Sweet and intense with sweet toasted oak. Rich and dense, but powerful, drying tannins keep it in check. Big (15.5% alcohol!) Peppery finish. Formulaic. (WS)