Fine, silky tannins provide the backdrop for the 2010 Paleo Rosso, a wine that captivates for its exquisite, graceful personality. Sweet, perfumed aromatics jump from the glass, followed by dark notes of red and black stone fruit, melted road tar, spices and espresso, all woven together in a fabric of pure class. The 2010 boasts stunning depth and volume, but is never heavy. All the elements are simply in the right place, but readers will need to give the tannins a few years to soften a bit further.

A solid wine with blueberry, blackberry and wild-cherry character. Full body with chewy tannins. So much mineral, chalk and cedar character, with gorgeous fruit. Pure cabernet franc, showing how fabulously the varietal works in Bolgheri. Needs two to four years of bottle age.

The 2010 Paleo Rosso is the most impressive wine of the tasting and easily cements this wine's reputation as coastal Tuscany's finest Cabernet Franc. The complexity is mesmerizing, as the wine playfully offers aromas of black fruit, salvia, rosemary, chocolate and spice in quick succession. It still tastes tight and nervous, so give it the time required to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. Cinzia Merli and her expert team (with consulting enologist Luca D'Attoma) have this extraordinary capacity of transmitting the poise and grace they possess as people to the wines they make. Unlike many others in the area, Le Macchiole reported excellent results in 2010 and started harvest in many blocks just a few days later than normal, thanks to slow and steady fruit ripening at slightly cooler temperatures. The 2010 vintage, they inform me, may be their best yet this century. For my tastes, 2010 does indeed show exceptional balance, but I wouldn't put it ahead of standout vintages like 2007 and 2004. Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates; www.domaineselect.com

The 2010 Paleo Rosso is the most impressive wine of the tasting and easily cements this wine's reputation as coastal Tuscany's finest Cabernet Franc. The complexity is mesmerizing, as the wine playfully offers aromas of black fruit, salvia, rosemary, chocolate and spice in quick succession. It still tastes tight and nervous, so give it the time required to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. ML

Perfumed, offering sandalwood, floral and sweet wood smoke aromas that augment the blackberry and spice flavors. Dense and muscular, with stiff tannins and ample sweet fruit. Fine length. Cabernet Franc. BS