The 2017 Messorio is also forward with a floral perfume of red apple, candied plum, mocha, and roses. It is full-bodied but lifts weightlessly off the palate and delivers a stony mineral flourish. It also has freshness on the finish without having any harsh edges, with ripe but present tannic structure. It is drinking beautifully now or will drink well over the next two decades. One of the benchmark wineries of Bolgheri, Eugenio Campolmi and Cinzia Merli purchased the estate in 1983 and planted their first four hectares of vines. Today, Cinzia Merli is joined by her two sons, Elia and Mattia, who work together to run the estate. Their holdings now consist of ten parcels, eight in Bolgheri and two in Bibbona, just to the north. In the vineyards, they practice organic farming while also implementing some biodynamic practices. Paleo Rosso’s first vintage was in 1989, before becoming exclusively dedicated to Cabernet Franc in 2001. Today, they make some of the most compelling ranges of single varietal wines. Messorio is dedicated to Merlot, Scrio to Syrah, and Paleo Rosso to Cabernet Franc.

The harvest of Merlot for Messorio in 2017 commenced on 17 August and finished on 7 September, producing around 12,000 bottles. Since 2015 it has been fermented with selected yeasts in concrete vessels at a moderate 26°C then aged in 100% new French oak with a light and progressive toastiness. The result is a slightly herbal Merlot with precise sweet cassis and plum fruit and depth of star anise and leather. Dense on the palate with red fruit flavours, it imposes powerful yet ripe tannins with crisp acidity and balanced alcohol.

Messorio is a wine that beautifully reflects the characteristics of the vintage and is a very accurate measuring stick of how any single vintage will eventually perform both in terms of near-term accessibility and long-term cellar aging. That said, the Le Macchiole 2017 Messorio plays its strongest cards in terms of mouthfeel and texture, revealing a robust structure and firmly integrated tannins that come from both the richly concentrated fruit and the careful use of oak. The wine shows a heavy center of gravity and a solid base of dark fruit that is enhanced by caramel, brown sugar, spice and creamy blackberry preserves. It does offer immediate appeal, but I'd wait a few more years to give this 2017 Messorio more time to flesh out and evolve.

Merlot. From vines an average of 25 years old. Two parcels. Fermented in concrete and aged 18 months in new French oak. Deep garnet. Smoky oak notes without obvious oak sweetness. Peppery and spicy dark fruit. Distinctive savoury style of Merlot. More obvious oak sweetness on the palate, thick firm tannins. Still very youthful, but I wonder if the oak will ever become subservient to the fruit. For oak lovers. (JH)