The Mastrojanni 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is dark and velvety in appearance, boasting rich fruit concentration. The bouquet shows dried cherry, blackberry, spice, leather, tar and all the good things you get when Brunello lives a trouble-free childhood in the winery. I recall the 2015 vintage showing enhanced density and richness, and this wine unfolds in a very similar manner. Perhaps the difference between the two vintages is more clearly enunciated in terms of mouthfeel. This 2016 vintage gives the impression of being more linear, tight and structured. Elegant mineral tones define the long and polished finish of this 55,000-bottle release.

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a pretty and understated expression of the vintage, lifting up from the glass with a mix of wild strawberries, dusty florals, hints of leather strap and animal musk. It’s soft, impressing on its purity of fruit, showing tart cherry with salty minerals and hints of savory spice. Fine tannins slowly dry the expression, yet this doesn’t feel overly tannic or tiring. This is so elegant and refined, yet I’m not finding the energy that I usually associate with this wine.

Mid ruby. Deep, earthy and savoury nose and still quite closed on the fruit. Juicy cherry and raspberry fruit with fine tannins. Still not entirely open but finely balanced. (WS)