Well, there is a lot of competition in this flight. The 1999 Masseto is another epic wine. Swaths of tannin give the 1999 a real sense of energy to match its decidedly virile, inward personality. Dark and brooding, the 1999 doesn’t quite have the volume of the 2001, the power of the 2006 nor the finesse of years like 2004, but it is nevertheless superb in a slightly burlier style than those wines.

This is sometimes overlooked by Masseto lovers. It shows the precision and finesse of a top Masseto with firm tannins and bright blueberry and violet character with a long fresh finish. It's full-bodied, and so very polished with wonderful texture. Drink or hold. Decant a couple of hours before serving.

This has a Mediterranean nose of wild rosemary, juniper, spice and ripe, rich cherry. Offers a superb expression of fruit, cedar and lead pencil flavors, matched to an elegant, harmonious profile. Terrific finish. Merlot.—Non-blind Masseto vertical (October 2017). Drink now through 2032. BS

This is very much a ‘traditional’ Masseto – less overtly ripe and with a cooler profile. Combined with its tertiary character, the 1999 proves to be a classy and complex Masseto with lovely balance and good energy. Aromas of black tea, sottobosco and savoury black fruits lead into an intense, briny palate of green olive, anchovy, herbs and concentrated dark fruits. Very much still alive and offering plenty of interest, this is a compelling vintage of Masseto.

Tasted blind at dinner at The Greenhouse. Served blind, this has a seductive, ravishing bouquet of red-berried fruit with touches of black olive, clay (pottery room!) and a slight savoury character reminiscent of a mature Petrus. Wonderful definition. The palate is full-bodied with firm tannins, real weight here and superb structure, but it offers more sensory and tactile pleasure than the Vigna d’Alceo ’99 apposite. The tannins are thick and chewy towards the finish, great depth and expression with a sumptuous finish. Sublime. Drink now-2020+ Tasted May 2009.

The dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Masseto offers a fabulous bouquet of sweet oak, black raspberries, blackberries, currants, new wood, and licorice. Firmly-structured and medium to full-bodied yet remarkably elegant, this impressive beauty needs 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age for 15+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2019. Importer: RM Imports, Napa, CA; tel. (888) RMONDAVI

A very special vintage with lots of blue still in the colour. Very cold winter. Late budbreak, no summer stress. Cooler vintage. Glowing deep colour. Just a tiny bit tired on the palate. Marco excuses it: ‘the grapes were perhaps less phenolically ripe then than nowadays.’ There’s some green-fruit flavour here. But also a little bit of age. It’s very different from today’s vintages, rather rude drying finish. Just a little brutal. (JR)