The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is attractive, if somewhat rustic and rough around the edges. Dark red cherry, worn-in leather, smoke, tobacco and game are some of the signatures. Readers should expect a virile, gamy Brunello. The tannins remain formidable and are also likely to outlast the fruit, so the 2004 is likely to offer a relatively brief window where all the elements are in balance.

Good medium-dark red. Rich aromas and flavors of ripe raspberry, bitter cherry pith and minerals. Rather large-scaled for this wine but intensely flavored and well delineated, offering an outstanding combination of ripeness and energy and neatly avoiding any sense of chunkiness. Finishes with a firm tannic spine that provides support to the lingering red cherry and berry flavors. A promising Il Marroneto that has improved greatly since its initial release, picking up flesh and sweetness. Il Marroneto is never a big ripe wine, but this vintage is one of the sweetest and fleshiest versions of this wine that I recall.

Good deep red. Musky, slightly liqueur-like aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, strawberry and dried flowers. Sweet, juicy and rather suave, with a penetrating quality and very good grip to the bitter cherry and cherry pit flavors. Finishes with subtle aromatic perfume and firm tannins that reach the front teeth.