The bright ruby 2019 Brunello Di Montalcino is another stunning 2019 on the nose, with bright, intense aromatics of rosewater, redcurrants, wild Mediterranean herbs, macchia, incense, anise, potpourri – it’s so distinctive yet always moving in the glass. Medium-bodied, with beautiful purity, it has ripe, fine tannins, is long on the palate for days, and has a weightless feel. This impeccable wine is phenomenal now, but it’s only going to improve over the coming 15-20 years. Il Marroneto was established in 1974 by Alessandro Mori, who today is joined by his son Iacopo as winemaker. Originally from Siena, Alessandro was looking to create a small winery and was encouraged by a priest in Montalcino to take a look at a church property on the northern side of the town, with its exposition overlooking Siena. It was there he found the home for his winery. Today, the Mori family’s approach to the vineyard and the winery remains traditional in that they work by more natural methods of temperature control, they do not implement green harvesting of the vines, and they do not work the soil, looking for nature itself to create its selection. The ground here is 75% sand, the ideal soil for Sangiovese. Today they own eight hectares of vineyard, with their prime holdings just outside the winery, the two hectares that make up Modanna delle Grazie sitting at 440 meters above sea level. All of their vineyards have a northern exposition, which is important for the cold winds in the early evening and through the night.

Alessandro Mori's wines are easy to spot in a blind tasting thanks to the soaring intensity and vibrant Sangiovese aromas they display. They are truly one of a kind. A wine that sees a relatively short and hot fermentation, the Il Marroneto 2019 Brunello di Montalcino respects local winemaking tradition and remains true in spirit. The steep verticality of the bouquet evokes almost-carbonic or lifted aromas of bright cherry, strawberry shortcake, lilac and heritage rose. You get straight to the heart of Sangiovese. The tannins are extremely fine and powdery and the freshness of the fruit is beautifully intact. This wine really pops in 2019.

Il Marroneto is one of Montalcino’s most consistently outstanding producers, in challenging and celebrated vintages alike. Brought up under the tutelage of Tuscan greats, Giulio Gambelli and Mario Cortevesio, Alessandro Mori has been at the helm of the estate for 30 years. In 2019, his son, Iacopo joined him full time. This release manages to marry intensity with delicacy and restraint, exuding perfectly ripe fruit with no excess. Pristine raspberry and succulent strawberry provide the backdrop from which liquorice, spicy pepper and fragrant violet surge, while the sculpted, silky tannins have a soft, yielding quality. Midweight and gracefully styled with effortless buoyancy, this is lovely now but with years of potential.

A cascade of bright cherry, rose buds, lavender and cedary spice wafts up from the whimsically perfumed 2019 Brunello di Montalcino. This is surprisingly juicy yet quite complex, with hints of zesty orange and vibrant acidity that add tremendous energy as crisp clove-inflected red fruits drench the senses. It finishes with cheek-puckering tannins, yet they are sweet and round. The 2019 tapers off spicy and fresh, leaving lingering mint, violets and sweet herbal tea notes. Don’t be fooled by its energy and approachability; the 2019 holds a massive amount of power in reserve. This is a spell-binding Brunello from Il Marroneto.

Lustrous mid ruby. Stunning nose chock-full of minerals with raspberry and a hint of eucalyptus. Elegant and succulent with pure raspberry and super-fine but firm tannins lining the fruit. Great precision. Transparent. (WS)