Masses of spiced cherry, strawberry, cedar shavings, hints of underbrush, smoke and dusty library book make the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie an aromatic thrill ride. Its color is vibrant, yet dark, far more so than the house Brunello placed next to it. It has a balanced inner sweetness and delicate feel, yet with potent red berries, along with notions of plum, tobacco and savory spice that cascade across the palate. Still structured yet potent and long, the 2012 has far more to say; yet only time will unlock those secrets, as it tapers off spicy with a hint of minty herbs that lingers.

Bright ruby. Deep red cherry and berry aromas are complicated by dried rose, tobacco and fresh herbs. Juicy and intense, with an austere quality to the subtle red and dark berry flavors. Finishes long and mineral, with slow-mounting, noble tannins and impressive clarity. Outstanding Brunello that needs to be cellared at length.

Lifted nose of blackberry and cherry with menthol notes, followed by full and plump black cherry flavours encased within a firm structure. Needs time still.

Tasted blind. Lustrous mid ruby. Shy and brooding. Amazing concentration and very tannic, not unlike a Barolo, but with real transparency and wonderful, cracking acidity. Burgundian and with a beautiful, aromatic spread on the finish. (WS)