Sangiovese-whisperer Alessandro Mori has delivered another superstar wine with the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna Delle Grazie. The bouquet is detailed and fine with bright accents of fragrant red rose, red currant, cola, licorice, grilled herb and crushed white peppercorn. The bouquet is loose, light and buoyant, with a smooth and natural progression of building aromas. The mouthfeel, however, is direct, important and determined. It's that playful juxtaposition between the wine's soft side and its stern side that makes this such an interesting and sensational wine to drink. Only 5,993 bottles were produced, and that's the bad news.

Is this going through a dumb phase? 2013 was a fairly classic vintage in Montalcino and this Madonna delle Grazie reflects that in its firm, verging on austere character. Its tannins shroud cherry and strawberry Sangiovese fruits, and while intense, tangy and with a mouthwatering finish, it simply lacks dimension and the fruit is diminished. I'm not convinced this will improve. Served from double-magnum.

Deep ruby. Pure, brooding and concentrated on the nose and with a touch of leather. Intense yet poised and with inherent richness of fruit and beautiful, coating tannins. Concentrated and with great balance and length, but really monolithic for the moment. (WS) (JR)

Cask sample. Concentrated crimson. Deep, pure and concentrated. Has the same serious structure as the straight 2013, but everything is more enhanced – like looking through a magnifying glass. Mouth-filling, stalky tannins that need much more time to settle. Impressive balance and power, yet effortlessly retaining its elegance. (WS)