Trying Il Marroneto’s various lots from cask is a fascinating exercise. They are all similarly located at high altitude, on coarse sand of marine origin and predominantly north facing. While they demonstrate subtle differences, Madonna delle Grazie’s distinct character often merits a separate bottling - as evidenced by the 2016. Aromas take on the darkest, most heady purple flowers tangled up in allspice and smoky incense. It is muscular in frame with firm tannins that stick and grip and don't let go, although it's never brawny, heavy or hard-edged. Currently a mouthful of stones, it reveals a balsamic core and tangy salted plum on the finish.

Lustrous ruby. Quite restrained with embryonic sweetness on the nose. Majestic fruit palate on which masses of juicy cherry fruit slowly unfurls. Enormous depth and spread with energetic grainy tannins that put the perfect boundary on the masses of fruit. A stunning wine. Transparent. (WS)

There it is: that Il Marroneto magic. To my palate, Alessandro Mori's 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Madonna delle Grazie best captures the soaring spirit and ambition of Brunello, made in its purest and most naked form. This vintage is a twin sibling to the 2010 that I awarded a perfect score. Whereas that wine surprised me, appearing with so much unexpected radiance and brilliance, this wine won me over in a more careful, less emotional and more contemplative manner. Having now tasted the 2010 vintage multiple times, I better know what to expect in terms of the near-term aging evolution of the 2016. I know that the laser-sharp purity of the fruit will soften, leading to more nuanced and finessed tones of underbrush, lilac, iron ore and candied orange peel over the next five years. This wine unfolds to show deep complexity up front with buoyant and jovial red fruit at its core. It vibrates with electric energy and charm.