Ornellaia is superb this year. One of the best in years, with currant and blackberry and hints of mint. Full-bodied, with excellent tannin structure and a lovely, sweet berry aftertaste. Best after 2000. 13,750 cases made. –JS

The 1996 Ornellaia (magnum) is one of the less-polished wines in this tasting. The tannins are a touch harsh and prominent, while the aromas and flavors tend towards fully mature suggestions of truffles and beef bouillon. In 1996 Ornellaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, marking the first move towards a lower percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The wine spent 18 months in French oak, 60% new. Anticipated maturity: now.