1996 should be considered a classic vintage, as it is in Bordeaux. This wine is not rich and is in fact quite austere, yet delicious to drink now with rich dishes such as braised beef cheek. It's full of elegance, with a restrained perfume of dried roses, cedar wood and truffle, while the leathery palate has a little less body than other vintages here, with austere, angular tannins.

Ornellaia is superb this year. One of the best in years, with currant and blackberry and hints of mint. Full-bodied, with excellent tannin structure and a lovely, sweet berry aftertaste. Best after 2000. 13,750 cases made. –JS

The 1996 Ornellaia (magnum) is one of the less-polished wines in this tasting. The tannins are a touch harsh and prominent, while the aromas and flavors tend towards fully mature suggestions of truffles and beef bouillon. In 1996 Ornellaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, marking the first move towards a lower percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. The wine spent 18 months in French oak, 60% new. Anticipated maturity: now.

Full ruby. Nose dominated by tar, licorice and herbs, plus suggestions of bell pepper and asparagus; the fruit element seems less pronounced and sweet than usual. Solidly structured and continuous in the middle palate, with blackcurrant and plum flavors, but slightly rough and bitter on the finish. The firm tannins could use a bit more roundness. A good effort in a difficult vintage.

Ornellaia 1996 Bolgheri Rosso Superiore 17.5 Drink 2008-15 Mid crimson. Surprising amount of development, slightly animal, on the nose. Supple and rather glorious. Pure pleasure. Tannins a little rustic. Very sweet start. Lots of personality even if not one of the most concentrated. Very chewy end – like licking stones. 13.5% CS:M:CF 75:20:5 166,000 bottles (JR)