The second flight is a comparison of power versus finesse. A towering, vivid wine, the 2006 Ornellaia bristles with power, depth and intensity. Broad swaths of tannin support the vibrant, youthful flavors in a captivating, breathtaking wine of the highest level. From magnum, the 2006 is an infant. Those lucky enough to own it are in for a treat.

This is a sensational Ornellaia displaying beautiful blackberry, dark-chocolate, light vanilla and walnut character. It's full-bodied, very refined and silky with a long and caressing finish. Just starting to open now. Very classy wine.

The 2006 Ornellaia flows from the glass in a profound expression of ripe, dark fruit. With time in the glass layers of minerals, cassis, tar, sweet herbs and French oak emerge, adding further complexity. This harmonious Ornellaia combines the richness of the vintage with superb freshness and awesome balance. Today the wine’s sheer density almost manages to hide the tannins, but they are there, and the wine will ultimately benefit from a few years in the cellar. The 2006 Ornellaia is one of the highlights of this sensational Tuscan vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. AG

Dark in color, showing loads of dark fruits on the nose, as well as licorice and berries and hints of mint and cedar. Full-bodied, with refined yet chewy tannins and a ripe berry, coffee and chocolate aftertaste. New wood barrels shine through. But it will all come together with bottle age. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best after 2012. 12,080 cases made.

Ornellaia 2006, dubbed ‘L'Esuberanza’, today expresses fresh and dried dark fruit aromas and even some green hints from the Cabernet Franc. Structured and saline, with fresh acidity and chalky tannins, it features a concentration of succulent, sapid blackcurranty fruit. A bolder Ornellaia, but classy nonetheless. 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot.

Deep crimson. The funny thing is that this wine smells first and foremost Tuscan rather than like the Bordeaux blend that it is. A good thing! Very savoury with real tang and I could swear there was some Sangiovese in here. Zings with life but there is no obvious sweetness at all (cf its stablemate Masseto). Great, glamorous life and concentration. The alcohol is very well hidden. Tannins are clearly there but are all but completely hidden by the ripe but savoury fruit. The overall balance is definitely helped by the defiantly high acidity. Delicious young wine that should age beautifully. (JR)