The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is a powerful, dense wine. Orchard fruit, chamomile, saline notes and dried flowers open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A rich white, the 2018 Bianco possesses tremendous weight, but it is also very much closed in on itself. I am intrigued to see how the 2018 ages.

Dried apple, lemon, lime and lemon curd on the nose with hints of cedar. Medium-to full-bodied with a solid core of fruit and a fresh, vivid finish. The vanilla cream and sliced fruit are so enticing. Just a hint of wood character at the end. Needs time to come together. Try after 2023.

After a scorching 2017, there was no water stress for the vines in 2018: spring saw three-times the average rainfall, which delayed budbreak although flowering was actually a week earlier than anticipated due to the higher-than-average spring temperatures. The season remained wet through to July, which was warm and dry. August was as hot as in 2017 but, crucially, there was a little bit of rain. The long ripening caused by the wet season led to an extremely protracted harvest, which commenced on 16 August but was not completed until mid-September. ‘We felt comfortable letting the grapes hang,’ noted Axel. As with 2015 and 2016, the comparison between equivalent blends in 2017 and 2018 is interesting: 2018 is bolder and more concentrated, allied to plenty of freshness (yet more suppressed aromas) and with a more three-dimensional quality than 2017. Saline and mineral, it features underlying stone fruit flavours with herbal overtones. There's a beautiful depth of pineapple, yellow plum and subtle sweet spices, with a creamy finish. The individual base wines were fermented in barriques (30% new) with no malolactic fermentation, then aged on the lees for 10 months with occasional batonnage. A final three months on steel was completed before blending and bottling.

Also heavily Sauvignon-dominated, the 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Viognier. It's definitely a richer, almost full-bodied white yet it leads with Sauvignon on the nose, with bright citrus, honeyed minerality, and white flower notes, with just a touch of Viognier white peach emerging with time in the glass. Beautiful on the palate as well, with a hint of green almond, it has a round, layered mouthfeel, brilliant balance, and a great finish. I suspect the acidity is relatively moderate (I wouldn't say low), but it's one of those wines that brings richness while holding onto a terrific sense of freshness and vibrancy. Geared for gastronomy, it's drinking nicely today yet should evolve for 5-7 years. I don't generally think Viognier ages very well, so its inclusion here always gives me pause, yet there are exceptions, and I love the texture it gives the wine.

The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is mostly Sauvignon Blanc with a complementary 15% addition of Viognier for added structure and textural support. This vintage shows the usual understated or slightly reserved character that we've seen in past editions. With a little prodding and swirling, the bouquet opens gradually to reveal a pretty assortment of d'Anjou pear, white peach, honeysuckle and toasted almond. The wine is fermented in oak, but malolactic fermentation does not occur. There are pretty dustings of saffron and crushed stone that hint at the evolution and elegance to come with extra time in the bottle. This wine was just released in May 2021.