The dense ruby/purple-colored 1997 Percarlo is compelling. Enormous in aromas, flavors, and persistence on the palate, it exhibits profound levels of concentration as well as unbelievably dense, black currant, blackberry liqueur notes infused with new saddle leather, licorice, truffles, and toasty oak. Enormously thick and viscous, with low acidity, and mouthcoating levels of extract, this wine's tannin level is high, but largely obscured by the wealth of fruit, glycerin, and extract. It is an amazing accomplishment! Anticipated maturity: now-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

The 1997 Percarlo impresses for its pure seduction. It is also impossibly young. Dark red cherries, flowers and mint wrap around the palate in this sensual, inviting wine. In keeping with the qualities of the warm year, the 1997 emphasizes textural depth and richness rather then the more aromatic, firm style that defines cooler years such as 1996. The 1997 is drop dead gorgeous today. I imagine the 1997 will age faster than the 1996, but that shouldn’t be much of a problem given the wine’s exceptional balance. Layers of fruit built to the huge, textured finish. This is a decidedly flashy wine. I have always had a soft spot for the 1997. This bottle more than exceeded my expectations. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. (Antonio Galloni)

Ruby-garnet with blackish notes. Intensely spicy, sweet nose dominated by plum; expansive and impressive. Massive and mouthfilling, with plum fruit of almost exotic ripeness. Complicating notes of tar and licorice. Finishes with great density and an avalanche of sensations that defies description. There have been so many great bottles of Percarlo that it is hard to rank them, but this 1997 is surely among the finest of all.