The 2001 Percarlo (magnum) impresses for its length and overall sense of harmony. I am quite surprised to see just how delicate the 2001 comes across in this vertical, as I expected a bigger wine. The 2001 remains quite young, but readers should expect a more laid back style relative to the powerhouse vintages.

The 2001 Percarlo, good as it is, is not the same level as the superlative 1999, along with the 1985 the best in the history of the house. The nose is impressively full and complex with notes of red currants and wild cherries, resin, chocolate, and smoke. The long, solid, shaped and polished flavors combine power and elegance in an exemplary fashion. But the sheer weight and density of the finest vintages are not present. Drink: 2006-2016. Importer: A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411