The 2017 Le Pergole Torte is rich powerful and also quite structured. In this tasting, the 2017 stands out for its textural density and darkness, both of which are unusual for Pergole Torte. Time in the glass brings out the wine's inner sweetness and perfume as layers of fruit continue to build. Potent and resonant to its core, the 2017 is shaping up to be a fascinating Pergole Torte.

The Montevertine 2017 Le Pergole Torte is a dark and sensuous expression with a well-matched "portrait of a lady" by artist Alberto Manfredi depicted on the iconic label of this vintage. Her full, ruby-colored lips speak of the generous and abundant fruit displayed here, and her slanted mascara-lined eyes underline the heat and power of the vintage. The Montevertine school matches the character of a wine to its bottle artwork with unparalleled success. This edition reflects the heat and the dry growing conditions of the vintage, however there is more sweetness and opulent fruit here compared to the Montevertine. It's not that this wine is riper per se, it just tastes more voluptuous and soft. It finishes with elegant tannins and a long, polished mouthfeel.

Rather than a single vineyard, this is a selection of the estate’s oldest Sangiovese vines. It includes the original Le Pergole Torte vineyard which was established by founder Sergio Manetti in 1967, as well as vines planted prior to 1999. Black tea, allspice and woodland berries lead on the nose, while the palate is dominated by a minerally, stony grip. Tangy acidity, powdery tannins and subtle, harmonised wood are precisely balanced in this sophisticated wine which allies elegance with power.