This is incredibly fresh for a 2017 with a well-executed, reductive edge; it opens with rosemary, thyme and tea leaves, before moving through blackcurrants, dark cherries, brambleberries, ash, tobacco and citrus. Dense, full-bodied and very chewy, this remains incredulously fine and elegant. Robust and enveloping tannins coat the mouth and mold the wild fruit into a sleek, pliable package. Finally, a string of refreshing acidity lifts the finish long and complex. Drink now, but better after 2026.

100% Merlot propagated from Castello di Ama's L'Apparito vineyard in Gaiole in Chianti, aged in barrique (one-third new) for 18 months. Subtle, fine, sweet red fruit with an elegant savoury oak note. Wonderful lightness of touch on the palate for such a hot year and with firm tannins. (WS)