The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro is big, rich and seamless. The wine had just been bottled the day of my visit, but it is very promising, even at this early stage.

Dark bright red. Black cherry, dark raspberry, licorice and graphite on the nose. Rich, vinous and deep, with dark cherry fruit complicated and lifted by flowers and licorice. Chewy and large-scaled but smooth and not heavy. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lingering notes of licorice, dark chocolate, licorice and smoky minerality. In a distinctly dark style.

Deep red. Coffee and cocoa complicate ripe dark cherry and plum aromas. Enters the mouth sweet and fleshy, with bright red cherry and licorice flavors, but turns austere and astringent, finishing with mounting tannins that coat the palate dry. Better with food, but I wonder about those tannins.