The Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro is gorgeous, full stop. It shows an incredible level of Sangiovese purity and sharpness, and you taste the grape as if you were eating berries straight out of the vineyard. On top of that healthy and bright primary material, the wine layers on elegant aromas of spice, ferrous earth, balsam herb and red rose potpourri. The aromas meet with seamless integration and segue to ongoing depth and complexity offered to the palate. This Riserva is rather delicate in terms of mouthfeel; however, it is powerful and long, with high alcohol, polished tannins and a silky texture. A hint of sweet cherry mixed with menthol freshness pulls it together at the end.

From the estate’s Pianrosso vineyard in the Castelnuovo dell’Abate area, Santa Caterina d’Oro bears the imprint of Montalcino’s south. The spiced, floral potpourri is tangled with sunbaked terracotta scents. This is a substantial, hefty wine with lots of extract and a profusion of fleshy red plum and prune. The tannins are very suave, while sandy earthiness lurks in the background and a salty tang comes through on the finish. Ageing is in Slavonian oak barrels of 7.5 to 30 hectolitres in size.

Maturing mid ruby. Lifted, balsamic nose with a peppery tingle and hinting at great richness. A suggestion of gingerbread. Bags of sweet fruit and crunchy tannins on the palate. Quite a bold wine right now, and deserving more time. (WS)