Dark and earth-driven, the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lifts from the glass with a rich and savory blend of ashen stones, underbrush, dried black cherries, cedar shavings and worn leather. This is surprisingly energetic and racy within, with a tart citrus flourish giving way to wild red berries and minerals, all motivated by brisk acidity. Tannins come forward through the finish, gripping the palate with youthful tension as hints of tangerine mix with a sour cranberry crunch. The 2013 is still many years away from its optimal drinking window, yet patience will be rewarded. This is simply stunning, marrying the cooler influence of the vintage with Il Poggione’s imposing and structured style.

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lives up to the impeccable reputation garnered by this estate over the years. This is a profound and beautifully rendered Sangiovese that delivers bold and luscious fruit quality with black cherry and spicy plum at the start. The bouquet follows through with mild oak notes of smoke, tar and toasted nut. There is another aromatic component that includes crushed stone and dried herb or mint. This Brunello shows elegant evolution in the glass and promises a very long aging future ahead. Some 200,000 bottles were made, so it should be easy to locate this excellent wine.

Bright red. Pure, refined red cherry and wild strawberry aromas and flavors complicated by sweet spices and aromatic herbs. Deep and multilayered, the wine boasts polished tannins and a harmonious acid spine that lifts and extends the red fruit on the long, suave finish. An essence of Sant’Angelo in Colle with bigger body and palate weight than, for example, the Brunellos of Montosoli, but still sleek and refined as the best wines of Sant’Angelo in Colle can be. The cool-climate-styled 2013 vintage is precisely the type of year in which Il Poggione excels: this lovely, focused wine is the best classico Brunello from Il Poggione in years. Superb.

Mid to deep shiny ruby with orange tinges. Savoury and spicy rather than fruity and needs to take a really big breath of air. Stony, minerally hints. Sappy and almost a little racy and with long, deep cherry notes on the finish. Fine, powdery tannins complement the whole. (WS)