Le Potazzine's 1999 Brunello di Montalcino is a terrific effort. Endowed with expressive aromatics and deep layers of tarry, earthy flavors, it exudes notable structure in a classic display of power and finesse. Hard to resist today, it should also drink well to age 20. Anticipated maturity

The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino, which competes with the best Giuseppe Gorelli has made to date, is a dark garnet in color, rich and warm on the nose with abundant aromas of plums, tar, and game, and dense and intense in flavor, loaded with raspberry and plum fruit and sensations of liquorice and truffles. Quite sustained and with a swelling, expanding volume and textured tannins which give grip and definition, it is a wine that will still be drinking well in 2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Deep ruby-red. High-toned aromas of dark berries, spicecake, mocha and cedary oak. Ripe, supple and easygoing, with enticing flavors of cassis, black plum, spices and black pepper. This has a lovely sweetness. Finishes with sweet, fine tannins and a suggestion of oak.