An exotic mix of sweet smoke and cloves gives way to dusty black cherries and a twang of sour citrus as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino unfolds in the glass. Further time reveals hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. This enters the palate with pure elegance, delicate and silky in feel, yet also delivering a core of salty minerals that adds unexpected depths to the vivid display of tart wild berries and inner spice. The 2017 finishes with incredible persistence but also poise, structured yet primary, exactly as it should be at this young stage. Keep your hands off for at least a few years, because the best is yet to come. The higher elevations and no-nonsense winemaking at Le Potazzine really aided in creating one of the most balanced and, frankly, interesting wines of the vintage. EG

Blackberry, black-cherry and mushroom aromas. The palate is full-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, but it remains polished and lively. Berry, earth and bark in the finish. Give this a couple of years to open up. Try after 2023.

Aromas of crushed mint, pressed rose and perfumed berry mingle with warm spice in this dazzling red. Thanks to some of the highest vineyard altitudes in the denomination, it boasts vibrancy and finesse in its flavors of ripe black cherry, juicy blood orange, licorice and crushed mint. Taut, elegant tannins and fresh acidity keep it balanced and focused. Drink 2025–2032. Kerin O'Keefe

The ladies of Le Potazzine make a terrific bottle of Brunello, and their high-elevation vineyards are especially important in maintaining freshness in a scorching-hot vintage such as this. The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino offers a pretty succession of wild berry, cherry and plum aromas, along with light spice, crushed flowers and perfumed potting soil. This wine is also distinguished by a touch of bay leaf and maybe a warmer note of cured tobacco as well. This is an impressive effort (with 16,000 bottles released). ML

Le Potazzine is run by Gigliola Giannetti and her daughters Viola and Sofia. Viola started taking over winemaking responsibilities in 2017 at the age of 24. She continues with the estate’s long-established approach of spontaneous fermentations in open top vats, lengthy macerations, no filtering and low SO2. I always find the wines a bit wild at first before an intense purity comes through. The 2017 reveals balsamic notes of sun-dried thyme and herb flowers before floral accents take over. It's a relatively powerful expression for Le Potazzine but ultimately expresses the property’s signature elegance. Grainy, sandy tannins wrap around ripe strawberry fruit, leading to a lingering finish of potpourri and orange. Drinking Window 2023 - 2031
Tasted by Michaela Morris(at Mastrojanni, 19 Nov 2021)
Part of Brunello di Montalcino 2017 vintage report and top-scoring wines