The ladies of Le Potazzine have broken with the pack. They are betting on this Riserva from the warm 2011 vintage over everything else (including vintages held in higher esteem by appellation authorities). The 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is indeed a sure bet if you are looking for a Brunello that will knock your socks off. This is a sharp, precise and extremely defined Sangiovese. This is an inspired wine (with a mere 3,200 bottles produced). The bouquet is slow and steady but also very effective as it comes into full focus. Red cherry, blackberry, cassis, balsam herb and spice all merge seamlessly on the nose. The mouthfeel is polished and long. You can count it in many long minutes.

It’s almost impossible to pull yourself away from the bouquet of the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Here I’m finding a beguiling mix of crushed dried roses, incense and red currant complemented by autumnal spice and hints of menthol and smoke. The textures are velvety-smooth, coating all they touch in ripe, lavender-tinged red and black fruits, contrasted by hints of sour citrus and a salty core of minerals. This tapers off with outstanding length. Structured for the long haul, but already showing a glimpse of the glorious Riserva that it will one day mature into. Wow – and from the 2011 vintage. Only 3,000 bottles were produced.

Luminous dark ruby. Camphor, licorice and potpourri complement dark berry and red cherry aromas and flavors. Less mineral but denser and more austere than the 2013, this focused, energetic Brunello boasts polished tannins and noteworthy suave mouthfeel on the long, complex finish. Super wine; Le Potazzine does not make a Brunello Riserva all that often, but when it does, you are virtually guaranteed to find something memorable in the bottle. Well done.