I liked this vintage a little less than when I first tasted it four years ago. With more bottle age under its belt, the Fattoria le Pupille 2018 Saffredi doesn't have the extreme smoothness that we encounter in the 2019 nor does it have the classic shape (with structure and freshness) that we get in the 2016. There are ripe aromas at the core of this wine with brandied cherry or Amarena cherry, and you feel some of the toasted grain from the oak. The winery team put much attention on the cooperage used in the 2019 and 2020 vintages, focusing on Orion and Taransaud, with wood from the center of France, such as from the forest of Tronçais. They see these as slightly sweeter woods, Elisabetta Geppetti tells me, that match the power of the Cabernet Sauvignon.

60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot from the southern Maremma. Look at that alcohol! Rich, almost ferrous nose. Opulently ripe fruit that's a bit overwhelming at first but finishes fresh. Definitely richer than the anniversary 2017 bottling and quite dangerous as it's so easy to drink. If the 2017 was more Tuscan than Bordeaux, this verges on Napa. Very glamorous! (JR)