1997 Salvioni, Brunello di Montalcino, Cerbaiola

Opaque garnet with deep purple highlights, almost blackish in color. Gorgeous, ethereal aromas of incense, honeysuckle, and nutmeg, with the unmistakable scents of glove leather and graphite woven in. Very rich flavors of blackberry liqueur, espresso and mint are layered and precise, and nicely supported by big, fuzzy tannins. The very long finish shows undertones of cassis and minerals. A thickly textured Brunello that conveys balance and finesse. By virtue of its depth and elegance, this is a riveting wine.

Salvioni's 1997 Brunello di Montalcino is deep, unctuous and super-concentrated. For a wine of its size, ripeness and vintage, the 1997 has aged exceptionally well. The bold, flamboyant style will appeal most to readers who enjoy opulent wines. At nearly twenty years of age, the 1997 is stunningly beautiful. The 1997 is at times a bit heavy and one dimensional, but it is in a great shape today, which is pretty much the highest compliment I can pay it.

Very, very deep crimson. Very, very full and almost overripe. Thick, lively, vibrant. Dry finish. Quite inky. Quite true to Brunello. Very, very chewy. (JR)