The 1987 Sassicaia maintains considerable momentum despite its age. As you would expect, the bouquet exhibits savory tones of cured meat, smoked bacon, wild porcino mushroom and dried fruit. Parts of the bouquet feel stewy and heavy, but other parts show more brightness and buoyancy. Linear mineral definition with lasting background tones of licorice and balsam herb help to add sharpness and much-needed focus. The mouthfeel is less satisfying, however, mostly because the tannins are very dry and muted. The palate is almost exclusively driven by the residual acidity of the fruit.

Lively crimson with evolution at the rim. Not 100 per cent clear. Definitely older, more evolved nose. Some spice and cough medicine. Thick. Dense. Great sore throat-warmer. Less opulent than the Masseto 1987. Good acidity. Neat. (JR)