The 1997 La Ricolma shows the natural richness and volume of the warm year, but also a set of mature, tertiary aromas that suggest it is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. Dark red cherry, chocolate, new leather spice and dried flowers meld into the creamy, voluptuous finish. The 1997 will continue to drink well for at least a few more years, but I wouldn't push my luck beyond that. All things considered, the 1997 has aged quite well for a wine from young vines made by an estate that was just figuring things out with this wine at the time.

Amazing concentration, but so balanced. Complex aromas of Indian spices, berries and cherries. Full-bodied, with superb backbone of polished tannins and a finish that goes on for minutes. Tremendous. Not imported into the U.S. Best after 2005. 115 cases made.

A mammothly constituted offering is the black/purple-colored 1997 La Ricolma (100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled with virtually no clarification). It is unctuously-textured, phenomenally-concentrated, and extraordinarily intense, with surreal levels of extract, glycerin, and richness. Its olfactory bombardment begins with scents of melted chocolate, roasted espresso, and oodles of black cherry and blackberry fruit. It is thick and phenomenally rich. However, despite its monstrous size, weight, and constitution, this wine is well-delineated, and remarkably refreshing to drink, although knocking off a bottle between two people might prove challenging. This sensational effort is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

A mammothly constituted offering is the black/purple-colored 1997 La Ricolma (100% Merlot aged in 100% new French oak, and bottled with virtually no clarification). It is unctuously-textured, phenomenally-concentrated, and extraordinarily intense, with surreal levels of extract, glycerin, and richness. Its olfactory bombardment begins with scents of melted chocolate, roasted espresso, and oodles of black cherry and blackberry fruit. It is thick and phenomenally rich. However, despite its monstrous size, weight, and constitution, this wine is well-delineated, and remarkably refreshing to drink, although knocking off a bottle between two people might prove challenging. This sensational effort is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2025.