The Siro Pacenti 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne shows an extra degree of concentration and thickness thanks both to the vintage (this hot and dry growing season produced darker, more intense berries) and the older vines that also work toward greater fruit weight. The Vecchie Vigne shows lots of depth and textural weaving with dark berries and oak spice. In fact, the oak (and that big 15% alcohol) is more prominent in this 18,000-bottle release. It offers long-lasting notes of smoke, sweet cedar and woodshop.

Maturing mid ruby with narrow orange rim. A tad closed on the nose with only the suggestion of gingerbread and with minerally, stony hints. Pure concentrated, cherry fruit with an exotic spice edge. Long and supple and with lots of acidity adding energy to the concentrated fruit. Great length, too and can already be approached. A hedonistic wine. (WS)