The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS is absolutely impressive, but with only 4,500 bottles made, it may not prove easy to locate. This precious expression of Sangiovese exhibits a gorgeous level of intensity and power, coupled by elegance and poise. The long presentation of aromas starts with black fruit and cherry confit and continues to crushed stone, toasted spice, cola and medicinal herb. The wine's texture sticks firmly to the palate. This Brunello ages in French oak for two years.

Rich and heady in the glass, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS smolders up with a captivating mix of plum sauce, grilled sage, crushed rocks and a dusting of savory spice. Its velvety textures soothe the palate, nearly creamy in feel, while ushering in a wave of ripe red and black fruits complicated by saline-mineral tones that add an almost-crunchy feel toward the close. This remains structured and youthfully dry, with super-fine tannins that saturate, along with a tart wild berry concentration and subtle nuances of tangerine. Keep the 2012 buried deep for at least another few years, as this serious wine has a story that only time will tell. The PS hails from a 1.5-hectares parcel in the oldest part of the Pelagrilli vineyards in the Northeast of Montalcino.

Deep red. Smoky, torrefacted notes complicate bright red cherry and mineral aromas on the enticing nose. Then rich, ripe and round in the mouth, offering a generous, broad mouthfeel and a captivating multilayered quality to the flavors of red fruit, blood orange and underbrush. The finish is long and supple.

Deep ruby. A tiny bit candied on the nose and with notes of candied cherry coulis but there is depth of flavour too. Very long, intense and succulent and a tiny bit stewed, making it a little old school. (WS)