The 1993 Brunello di Montalcino is fully resolved. Dried stone fruit, cedar, tobacco, leather, herbs and dried flowers give the wine its fully tertiary personality. In this tasting, the 1993 is not especially exciting given the other bottles that are on the table. All things considered, the 1993 is a good Brunello to drink now and over the next few years, before the fruit dries out too much further.

The dark garnet 1993 Brunello di Montalcino Case Base exhibits an intensely perfumed nose with volatile acidity giving the wine an exotic, somewhat over the top style. High tannin cuts a big, powerful path on the palate. This full-bodied wine is dense and rich, yet sweet and approachable. It should drink well for 12-15 years. This unfined, unfiltered, totally natural offering is one of the most aromatic and expressionistic red wines made in Italy. It is obviously made from grapes taken to the limit of ripeness, as well as vinified with caution thrown to the wind. This fascinating wine is made in extremely limited quantities as the estate's production is approximately 2,000 cases. A Leonardo Locasio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Medium-full ruby-garnet. Fairly ripe, firm aromas of minerals, cherry, cedar and tobacco; intense and spicy but not oaky. Medium-full body. Firmly tannic, ripe black cherry and spice flavors; finishes rather foursquare right now, with high-toned acidity and good freshness. A structured wine that balances powerful kirsch fruit and a mineral sleekness. Quite intensely flavored, but a wine of very good rather than outstanding length. Should benefit from a decade of bottle aging. **-