The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, on the other hand, might be the single most elegant wine ever made at the estate. Silky tannins, soaring aromatics and finely sculpted fruit elevate the 2004 into the realm of the truly sublime. It is another remarkable, moving wine.

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is another epic wine. It is remarkably textured and vivid for a young Soldera, with endless layers of fruit. The wine literally explodes on the palate with sweet hard candy, expressive red fruits, licorice, tobacco and mint. Everything is held wonderfully in place by the silkiest of tannins. From start to finish this is a towering effort. The 2004 Riserva is so beautiful it can be enjoyed with no guilt whatsoever today. Readers should note there are three lots of the Riserva in 2004. This is Lot F77, which is made from Intistieti, the vineyard that has yielded virtually all of Soldera’s most legendary bottles. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. (Antonio Galloni)