The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is an understated beauty, impressing with a perfumed bouquet of red currants, cedar spice box and roses. This sweeps across the palate with ease, sleek and spry, with an elegant wave of ripe red and black fruits. Tension slowly mounts through a blend of crisp minerality and brisk acidity. It takes on a spicy persona through the finish, mixing citrus-tinged blackberry, a saline sensation and hints of spice. Crystalline tannins add youthful poise—gorgeous. The 2019 Riserva was produced entirely from Vigna Vecchia Mercatale. This is a stunning showing.

In the bottle with the black label, the Canalicchio di Sopra 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva reveals a savory and austere bouquet with dried fruit flavors, licorice and a hint of brandied plum. The alcohol measures 15% and is the same for all the other Brunellos from the 2020 vintage. Even the 2022 Rosso di Montalcino is high in alcohol at 14.5%. Despite that power, vintner Francesco Ripaccioli manages phenolic ripeness and oak aging masterfully. You might not guess the real alcoholic content in this limited 4,133-bottle release.

Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Great depth and complexity but very slow to show this fully. Brooding intensity of embryonic fruit on the nose. A full palate of concentrated, layered red fruit with the perfect dose of tangy acidity and finely ground tannins. Long, fruit-driven finish. Still in a monolithic state; patience needed. (WS)