The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is deep, textured and impeccably balanced. Dark cherries, plums, tobacco, crushed rocks and spices blossom in the glass. Here, too, the overall sense of harmony is utterly captivating. A gorgeous wine, the 2008 stands out for its exceptional polish. The style is a bit deeper, richer and more layered than the Pelagrilli, but at the same time remains deeply marked by the prevalence of fruit from the northern side of Montalcino. In 2008 Pacenti lost about a third of his production from the south, which means this is are vintage in which the Brunello incorporated more fruit from the north than the south, roughly a 60/40 split. This is a fabulous effort in a vintage that proved to be full of challenges.

(14.5% alcohol): Good full ruby-red. Expressive scents of strawberry, mocha, truffle, minerals and dried flowers. Then sweet and refined on the palate, with a strong spicy character that's currently cut off by big, youthfully aggressive northern Montalcino tannins. This is still very closed today and will require patience, but its pure delivery of fruit and concentration bode well for the future.