The 2005 Tenuta di Trinoro is one of the handful of unqualified successes in this difficult Tuscan vintage. Rain towards the end of the growing season compromised much of the fruit, so in 2005 Tenuta is roughly 90% Merlot, an early-maturing grape which the estate was able to bring in before the rains. It is a primary, vibrant wine endowed with super-ripe blueberries, blackberries, new leather, spices and graphite. It is incredibly long, layered and pure, all qualities which are quite rare in this vintage. Franchetti also opted for a relatively short 7 months of oak aging in 2005, which seems to have been an inspired choice in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Andrea Franchetti continues to turn out some of the most inspired wines in Italy. Franchetti pushes ripeness to the extreme, letting his fruit hang far longer than is the norm, which can cause problems as the growing season moves into the fall and the risk of inclement weather increases. To be sure, his is a high-risk, high-reward approach few winemakers would have the stomach for. From year to year the blend in his top bottling, Tenuta di Trinoro, varies considerably, but one thing is a constant; the wines are almost always outstanding and often profound expressions of these terroirs as interpreted by Franchetti. In recent years the second wine, Le Cupole di Trinoro, has established itself as a terrific wine that won’t break the bank. For those who are curious, the cellar itself is as bare-bones as they come. The wines are fermented in smallish stainless steel tanks which allow Franchetti to vinify separate lots of fruit individually. The wines are aged in French barrels. Importer: T. Edward Wines, Ltd., New York, NY; tel. (212) 233-1504

63% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot. Merlot harvested 2, 4 and 5 October. Cabernet Franc picked 6-8 October. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot picked 28-30 October. Dark crimson. Very evolved, pretty and complex – fully ready on the nose. A little heat on the end but masses of pleasure now. Just slightly dry tannins on the end. Not the most intense on the mid palate. (JR)