Andrea Franchetti's 2014 Tenuta di Trinoro represents the vintner's definitive shift to a more elegant and focused style of winemaking. This wine was once celebrated for its super ripe aromas and sweet, jammy flavors. But this cool vintage hammers home a new approach that sees less bulk and density—something Franchetti has been enthusiastically embracing over the past five years or so. The results are stratospheric. The Tenuta di Trinoro property sees pretty high average temperatures in summer. The quality of fruit offers special grace and elegance in cool years like this. Among the many samples I have tasted across Tuscany from the 2014 vintage, Tenuta di Trinoro is a memorable wine and a landmark achievement.

39% Cabernet Franc, 39% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot – high Petit Verdot content and relatively low alcohol. Wet and mild winter led to early flowering (from 15 May). Andrea Franchetti: ‘Fast coloring of berries in all the vineyards during the last days of July confirmed to us how the plants were full of energy. We dropped a third of the grape load from our plants, and because of repeating rains, we hired more people to work in the vineyard throughout the summer.’ Sunny end to September then rain again in October: ‘On the 13th, a storm broke on the farm, and rain fell hard for two days. The grapes’ health in the valley’s bottom was getting bad, and we had to organise a hurried picking there with lots of people working in the rain on the 15th.’ The weather finally improved and held for the harvest of the remaining Cabernets and Petit Verdot. Harvest: Merlot 29 September to 2 October; Cabernet Franc 10–21 October; Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot 28 October. 7,000 bottles produced. Floral nose and very juicy palate with real refreshment and polished tannins. Definitely very mineral, stony finish and very 21st century. Needs food but has lovely elegance. Belies the poor reputation of the vintage, which I had forgotten until after tasting it! (JR)

39% Cabernet Franc, 39% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot. Gorgeous nose that shows the full complexity of great wine: dried herbs, turned earth, black cherry, long and leathery to finish. Tight tannins on the palate, cut by fresh acid. (RH)