The 2008 Giusto di Notri is wonderfully alive in the glass. Dark red berries, flowers, spices, grilled herbs, licorice and leather are some of the notes that flesh out in this dazzling, vibrant Giusto di Notri. Polished tannins provide the backdrop for the silky, expressive finish. A final blast of red fruit adds freshness and brightness on the close. Giusto di Notri is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is a fabulous set of wines from Stefano Frascolla and Tua Rita. The 2008s show the real class of the year in Maremma. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot and 15% cabernet franc) Full, deep ruby. Superripe, high-toned blackberry and blueberry aromas are lifted by violet and complicated by ink and gunflint. Densely packed and very smooth, with powerful dark berry, tobacco and mineral flavors coating the palate. A huge wine yet almost magically light on its feet thanks to firm, harmonious acidity. This is even more complex than the '07: these two vintages of Giusto are unquestionably among the best to date.