Smoke, tobacco, cedar and roasted coffee beans wrap around a core of juicy dark cherries and plums in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. There is plenty of depth in the glass, but, as is often the case here, three years in oak yields a wine with slightly oxidative overtones. Powerful, incisive tannins support the finish.

Andrea Cortonesi's 2010 Brunello di Montalcino struts its stuff from the very start. This is a Brunello of profound beauty, intensity and complexity. At this young stage in the wine's life you get a generous dose of primary fruit focused on cherry and blackberry. You also get so-called secondary aromas from the oak that recall spice, cinnamon and dark smoke. These lead to the promise of beautiful tertiary aromas as the wine continues its slow evolution over the course of time. This wine is like a long-distance runner who explodes from the starting line and keeps a steady pace throughout the race. Dark penetration and rich aromas wrap generously over the palate. Endnotes of spice, cured meat and barbecue smoke add extra layers to the finish. I am a huge fan of Uccelliera's Brunello and the 2010 is absolutely unforgettable.

Deep, almost opaque ruby. Concentrated, chalky cherry on the nose and lovely concentration of fruit on the palate. Richly tannic. Already very appealing, but will improve with age. Carries the 15% alcohol well. (WS)