The Valdicava 2017 Brunello di Montalcino shows a soft level of vintage ripeness that translates into dried strawberry or cooked cherry. These nuances are delicate and fine, however, and they are mitigated by the wine's acidity and the general clarity of the bouquet. Compared to past vintages, this 2017 is more accessible, but Valdicava has never been short on elegance or pedigree. Even that accessibility I mention is relative, because these wines have an excellent track record for longevity despite vintage variation.

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a perfect example of how unique this vintage really is. This is remarkably pretty and inviting with a brilliant display of sugar-dusted cherries, dried strawberries and crushed lavender candies. Its medium-bodied framework carries silky textures across the palate in an expression that is both delicate yet potent, savory yet sweet, and with outstanding purity of fruit. Rounded tannins linger, creating a lightly structured feel, as rosy inner florals combine with sour citrus and notes of licorice that linger incredibly long. This is unlike any vintage of Valdicava that I’ve ever tasted, and yet I can’t help but come back to the glass over and over again. Only 800 cases of the 2017 Brunello were produced, which is mostly fruit from Madonna del Piano and Montosoli. Don’t miss it.